Below:
Shown are 3 blanks carefully cut and slotted for the truss rods.
The template sits on top, the plan is seen behind and in front
are the tools I use to mark things out. What isn't in the picture
is the 1.2 meter straight edge used to draw the centerlines.
Believe it ir not the 600mm stainless steel ruler is not dead
straight, even though I paid $50 odd dollars for it. The straight
edge cost me considerably more than the rule even though it
is only made of aluminium. It does however have one reference
edge machined square and straight. |
|
|
Below: The blanks ready for the headstock rough thickness
cut. |
|
|
Below: The blanks have been roughed out on the bandsaw and
tidied up on the spindle sander. I like to leave as little as
possible for the router to take off as the it will mash the
neck and fingers too if it grabs. If you have just a smidgin
for the router to take, the chances are nearly zero of it grabbing.
You can minimise the chance of grabbing and tearout even further
by using a sharp spiral upshear bit. BTW you can see the headstock
thickness has been cut at the headstock end. |
|
|
Below: Routing complete with a nice smooth finish. I paid
over $100 dollars for that spiral upshear bit and since its
purchase I have not wasted a body or neck blank due to tearout.
This is pretty important to me as I use only expensive premium
timbers. |
|
|
Below: The blanks with the template stripped off showing the
block at the end of the truss rod slot. This will be drilled
out so the adjuster nut can be accessed Fender style from the
heel. You can see a couple of router grabs in the slots of the
centre and right neck. I have used a piece of sapele to fill
the voids even though they were only a couple mm deep. No-one
would ever see it except the guy who one day in the future might
pull off the finger board for repairs. I just can't leave stuff
like that. The one on the left is the ash neck used for #18.
|
|
|
Below: The blanks are beginning to look like necks after all
that work. The headstock cutout has been cut away on the bandsaw.
These are the first necks using this headstock shape. It is
tricky to come up with an original design and will always look
similar to some other headstock. I drew this one up outa my
head and apologise to anyone else who uses similar. |
|
|
Now it's time to flatten the inconsistencies out of the headstocks
left by the bandsaw This little gem.is called a Wagner Safe
T-Planer. It is a great little addition to the drill press for
leveling and thicknessing small jobs like this . |
|
|
|
Below: truss rods installed with a little silicon so they
don't move |
|
|
|
Below: You can see how I have glued in and drilled a small
block to allow access to the truss rod adjuster. Next job is
laying them out on the fretboards which have already been slotted
and radiused. Glueing down a fretboard has a few tricks to it.
I haven't done a lot of them and each one teaches me more things
to avoid. |
|
|
|
Below: Finally Ready for the fretboards |
|
|
|
Below: Studs in to stop fretboard slippage when clamping
- i use 3 |
|
|
|
Below: Fretboard glueup |
|
|
|
Below:Out of the clamps and a bit of a trim up on the band
saw. #18 again |
|
|
|
Below:Trim up the edges with handplanes |
|
|
|
Below: Trim the board back to 22 frets |
|
|
|
Below: Trim up flush with the table mounted router. #18 at
the left |
|
|
|
Below: Setting up for rounding off the fretboard end at the
headstock |
|
|
|
Below: Using the spindle sander to make the transitional cut |
|
|
|
Below: Finished stage 1 - next job is to add the the side
dots and fret markers |
|
|
|
pretty much done now just waiting for the carve. The ash neck
[front] goes on #18 pretty well straight up and the others sit
in the back of the workshop waiting for a lull in the neverending
stream off clients guitars and cab builds. I have pix of the
rest of #18 carve somewhere - must put those up sometime.
I have a pictorial on other aspects of a neck build including
the carve here |